Only after visiting, I understand what all the fuss about Tulum is – and why many of its fans have moved on, at least for now.
Tulum used to be known as an off-the-grid retreat favoured by the hippies. Huts and tents and hammocks were used for sleeping.
Along came yoga classes, juice bars and detox resorts, and while that is all just lovely, I believe no place on this planet can take too many new age spirit cleanses, harem pants and green juice stands without getting out of balance.
So I could not help but think that the simpler times of Tulum with no electricity and no wi-fi must have been amazing to all those lucky ones who got to experience them.
As a vacation destination, Tulum is basically a few miles of jungle road lined by hotels, restaurants and quite amazing nature. There is the brilliant clear blue ocean on one side and the jungle on the other side.
I get the sense if you do not take care of your place here, it is quickly taken over by the elements. The salty air is harsh, and everything grows quickly.
The bohemian lifestyle that the wellness and resort businesses of Tulum promote may feel a little faux, but people who live there for longer periods of time will inevitably tune into the rhythms of nature and that must be quite wonderful.
There is no question about the location being charming – hello, you have a jungle, amazing vegetation and wildlife and a sandy beach leading into crystal clear waters – and that is where we went. Into the sea. Over and over and over again.
When the sun was out, we went there to cool down, and when it started raining we went there to warm up.
That is how I want to remember Tulum. Drinking coconuts on the beach, having tacos for lunch, and ending the day with an al fresco dinner.
It will not be difficult to find good fresh food in Tulum but if you only eat in one place, be it Hartwood.